Bordeaux
Esplanade des Quinconces © Jonas Witt
The world's wine capital is disappointingly shabby, but is currently undergoing some renovation and clean-up projects which, while not adding to its aesthetic value at present, will ultimately make this large, wealthy metropole with its classical architecture easier on the eye. Bordeaux is sited on the Garonne River, 20 miles (32km) in from the Atlantic, and is France's fifth largest city with a population of 650,000. In days of yore it started out as a Roman trading post, and passed into the hands of the English who owned it for some 300 years, imparting a British frosting on the French flair of the city and surrounds. Many of the grand chateaux in and around the city are still in English hands and many are open to tourists. Visitors can also sample the wares at several wine exporters premises in the city, which chiefly serves tourists simply as a stopover and central transport hub useful for accessing France's famous wine-growing region.



Attractions

Bordeaux
Bordeaux

Vieux Bordeaux

Vieux Bordeaux (old town) centres on the Quartier St-Pierre, which is surrounded by narrow streets, and lined with old churches and grand mansions adorned by wrought-iron balconies and arcading. There has been a lot of restoration over the last few years, but many streets remain fairly seedy. One of the most opulent displays of Bordeaux's former glory is the Grand Theatre. It was built between 1773 and 1780 on the site of a Roman temple and is faced with an enormous colonnaded portico topped by 12 Muses and Graces. Visitors can view the impressive interior by attending one of the operas or ballets.

Nearby is the Esplanade des Quinconces, which was laid out between 1818 and 1828 and covers nearly 12 hectares (30 acres) - making it the largest square of its kind in Europe. A smaller but more beautiful square is the earlier Place de la Bourse. Its centrepiece is a fountain of the Three Graces and is bordered by quays opening onto the river and flanked by the Custom House and the Stock Exchange. Crossing the river is the impressive Pont de Pierre, which was built during Napoleon's Spanish campaigns, and has 17 arches in honour of his victories. The views of the river and quays from here are memorable, particularly when floodlit at night.

Important churches include the delightful Basilique St-Michel, across from which is the Fleche St-Michel, which has the tallest stone tower in France; it was built in 1472 and is 374ft (114m) high. During July and August (afternoons only) visitors can climb the 228 steps for wonderful views over the river. To the west is the 13th century Cathédrale St-André, the most impressive and ostentatious church in Bordeaux (look out for the wonderful sculptures in the doors).

The city's museums are gathered around the cathedral, the best being the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which has a fine collection of European art including works by Reynolds, Titian, Rubens, Matisse and Marquet, a resident of the city. The old town is fairly compact and is best seen on foot; two-hour walking tours can be arranged through the local tourist office. Boat tours can also be arranged.

Telephone: Grand Theatre (05) 56 00 85 95; Opening time: Musée des Beaux-Arts is open daily except Tuesday, 11am to 6pm; Admission: Musée des Beaux-Arts €5

Excursions

The Wine Country

The area surrounding Bordeaux produces over 70 million gallons of wine each year including the world's best red wine. Many vineyards are small family run businesses without staff to cater for tourists, but the larger more famous ones organise tastings and tours of the cellars and vineyards. Château Mouton-Rothschild is located just north of Pauillac. It is still run by the Rothschilds and attracts thousands of visitors each year who come as much for the impressive collection of art as for the wine. Château Lafite-Rothschild is nearby and was purchased by the Rothschilds in 1868. The vinothèque contains many vintage bottles, several dating from 1797. Château Margaux is an imposing 19th century château south of Pauillac; the estate produces three wines from its 650 acres. To see the vat rooms and wine cellars, make an appointment by letter or phone.

Telephone: Château Mouton-Rothschild (05) 56 73 2129; Château Lafite-Rothschild (01) 53 89 7800; Château Margaux (05) 57 88 8383

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